semana santa de seville

We had looked forward to being in Seville for Holy Week having heard about the extraordinary celebration there. We just were in no way prepared for the extent of this celebration. The hotel advised us that we could not drive to our hotel in the old city so we left our rental at the train station (and later continued the last leg of our trip by train to Madrid!) Most all of the whole city which was already difficult to access was essentially closed to all but foot traffic for Holy Week.
The celebration consists of daily religious processions which are organized by various brotherhoods, most of whom have existed for centuries. Starting on Saturday before Palm Sunday up to 9 or 10 of these processions continue each day ending on Easter Sunday. There are a few small groups (about 200) but most of the processions are about 1000 to 1400 members processing. they move slowly and it take hours to go slowly through the narrow streets. Altogether there are about 70 different brotherhoods. The processions which begin early afternoon can last 12=14 hours ending in the early morning hours. Typically the procession begins at the home church, processes to the Cathedral for a blessings and then return to the home church.
Each procession has 2 and some times 3 pasos===El Cristo and La Virgen. These pasos weigh about 2 metric tons and are carried by teams of 20-30 men underneath. We had been told where to go where it was not too crowded. This was great because we could actually see what happened when the paseo stopped and the carriers could take a break. Also at intervals they were met by substitutes.
Each paso is usually accompanied by a band. The drums and the music actually set the pace for the paseo to move through the city.
Each paso is different , richly carved and decorated. Starting late afternoon and continuing well past our bedtime we found ourselves fascinated by this tradition.
The robed and hooded processors are anonymous penitents, nazarenos who have observed this practice for centuriess.

AC hotel Santa Paula

Our Granada hotel was new and lovely-part of an old convent. It was in the old part of town and we could walk everywhere! In the first picture you can see Al enjoying a cafe in the far right hand corner in blue!

Our to was beyond the double doors in the 2nd photo.

The 3rd photo is an evening shot of the convent courtyard!

Tapas!

We left Alhambra and walked back to town through the Gate of Justice. We found a great little spot for tapas and had beer---Spanish beer is very good--and our favorite fried anchovies.
Al is eating salmorejo soup which is a little like gazpacho but with bread crumbs. Delicious.

Alcazaba

This is the highest point and the fort/defensive part of Alhambra. The views atop the towers were spectacular. You can see the Spanish flag at half staff and this is in respect to the many Spaniards who lost their lives in the Lufthansa crash in France. BTW we climbed to the top of that tower!

Time for Cafe con leche break!

Before climbing up to the Alcazaba Fort at the western end of the Alhambra we stopped for a cafe and ice cream break. The temperature was almost 70 and it was a beautiful day with lots of sightseers--could not imagine crowds on a hot summer day.

In the distance are the year round snow capped mountains where there is popular ski resorts.

Palacios Nazaries

At exactly 10:30am we entered this famous Moorish Alhambra Palace built on the 14 Century. I had visited here before while working in Almeria but not entered the palace. The walls are molded plaster which originally were painted and the ceilings are carved wood. There are many wooden screens behind which the women sat not to be seen! The picture below is the Courtyard of the Myrtles. The next picture is of the Courtyard of the Lions.
The Alhambra is located high on a hill. A nearby river was redirected to provide a plentiful supply of water.

Generalife Gardens-Alhambra

Al booked our Alhambra visit before we left Seattle and the day of our visit was glorious. We taxied to the entrance and with plenty of time before we were to enter the palace (all instructions said not to be late or you lose your res.) we first visited the Generalife Gardens. This was the location of the sultan's fruit and vegetable gardens and a small summer palace, about 15mins walk from the main palace. Beautiful and peaceful.

First views of Alhambra

The drive to Granada past farm land and many many olive groves took 2 hours. Our mini-iPad map directed us well and we only had problems when we didn't follow directions. Our new hotel was in a very old convent in the old city. (BYW Lovely!). We had to navigate many one way streets! We missed a sign and Al had to back up the equivalent of about 2 blocks to the entertainment of passers by and several annoyed motorists. Once at the hotel we didn't drive again until we left for Seville!
In the afternoon we walked the narrow streets of the old town and caught our first glimpses of the Alhambra.

Tapas in our room!

Cool but comfortable!

Marriott Estepona

We enjoyed our stay on the Costa del Sol but wished the weather had been better. The sun came out our last day and we had a lovely beach walk. I finally dipped my toes in the Mediterranean. In the distance on the right you can see Gibraltar and on the left the coast of Africa---between the strait of Gibraltar and the Atlantic beyond.

Fantastico Tapas

We found a terrific spot in Ronda for Tapas. In the photo Al is trying fried pigs ear. It was delicious. The little roll next to the pig's ears was fried squid also tasty. Our most favorite was fresh fried anchovies. That was Fantastico! Our favorite Tapas so far.

Views of Old Bridge Ronda

The Old Bridge was built in 1616 upon the ruins of an Arabic Bridge. In the background can be seen ancient Arab baths. Also the square boxes are from an old tannery. In the distance a riding academy can also be seen in the last picture.

Visit to Ronda

The rain seemed to be holding off so we headed into the mountains to the ancient Roman and then Moorish city of Ronda. We had heard that this city was a must and we were not disappointed. The city was establish in the ninth century. It is located in a high plateau and straddles a gorge 360' over the river. The old town and the new town (built in 1485) across from each other! The new bridge was built in 1751!
Upon arrival we parked on the new side where we visited a very old bull ring. Later we crossed the new bridge to see La Ciudad, the old Moorish town.

Our visit to Gibraltar

Amidst the rainy days we had a clear morning and headed for Gibraltar about a 1 hr drive west along the Mediterranean. The land to the north of the rock is very flat. As you approach the rock looms above the straight. We parked in the Spanish town of La Linea and walked across the border showing our passports at the Frontera! We had been told that it might take hours to drive across the border. We did see long lines!!!
After crossing the border we took a quick bus to the town center and then walked to the cable car. From the top we could see all around as well as Africa through the clouds.
There a monkeys all over the top. They are supposed to be tame but I didn't like them!

Short on Sol!

We are staying between Marbella and Estepona at a lovely European Marriott resort right on the Mediterranean. This area has many many golf courses and golf resorts. People travel here from all over Europe to find sun and golf even though the temperatures are cool. For the first few days we have had plenty of RAIN and no Sol! The resort has a lovely indoor pool and workout facility which we have taken advantage of.