semana santa de seville

We had looked forward to being in Seville for Holy Week having heard about the extraordinary celebration there. We just were in no way prepared for the extent of this celebration. The hotel advised us that we could not drive to our hotel in the old city so we left our rental at the train station (and later continued the last leg of our trip by train to Madrid!) Most all of the whole city which was already difficult to access was essentially closed to all but foot traffic for Holy Week.
The celebration consists of daily religious processions which are organized by various brotherhoods, most of whom have existed for centuries. Starting on Saturday before Palm Sunday up to 9 or 10 of these processions continue each day ending on Easter Sunday. There are a few small groups (about 200) but most of the processions are about 1000 to 1400 members processing. they move slowly and it take hours to go slowly through the narrow streets. Altogether there are about 70 different brotherhoods. The processions which begin early afternoon can last 12=14 hours ending in the early morning hours. Typically the procession begins at the home church, processes to the Cathedral for a blessings and then return to the home church.
Each procession has 2 and some times 3 pasos===El Cristo and La Virgen. These pasos weigh about 2 metric tons and are carried by teams of 20-30 men underneath. We had been told where to go where it was not too crowded. This was great because we could actually see what happened when the paseo stopped and the carriers could take a break. Also at intervals they were met by substitutes.
Each paso is usually accompanied by a band. The drums and the music actually set the pace for the paseo to move through the city.
Each paso is different , richly carved and decorated. Starting late afternoon and continuing well past our bedtime we found ourselves fascinated by this tradition.
The robed and hooded processors are anonymous penitents, nazarenos who have observed this practice for centuriess.

AC hotel Santa Paula

Our Granada hotel was new and lovely-part of an old convent. It was in the old part of town and we could walk everywhere! In the first picture you can see Al enjoying a cafe in the far right hand corner in blue!

Our to was beyond the double doors in the 2nd photo.

The 3rd photo is an evening shot of the convent courtyard!

Tapas!

We left Alhambra and walked back to town through the Gate of Justice. We found a great little spot for tapas and had beer---Spanish beer is very good--and our favorite fried anchovies.
Al is eating salmorejo soup which is a little like gazpacho but with bread crumbs. Delicious.

Alcazaba

This is the highest point and the fort/defensive part of Alhambra. The views atop the towers were spectacular. You can see the Spanish flag at half staff and this is in respect to the many Spaniards who lost their lives in the Lufthansa crash in France. BTW we climbed to the top of that tower!

Time for Cafe con leche break!

Before climbing up to the Alcazaba Fort at the western end of the Alhambra we stopped for a cafe and ice cream break. The temperature was almost 70 and it was a beautiful day with lots of sightseers--could not imagine crowds on a hot summer day.

In the distance are the year round snow capped mountains where there is popular ski resorts.

Palacios Nazaries

At exactly 10:30am we entered this famous Moorish Alhambra Palace built on the 14 Century. I had visited here before while working in Almeria but not entered the palace. The walls are molded plaster which originally were painted and the ceilings are carved wood. There are many wooden screens behind which the women sat not to be seen! The picture below is the Courtyard of the Myrtles. The next picture is of the Courtyard of the Lions.
The Alhambra is located high on a hill. A nearby river was redirected to provide a plentiful supply of water.

Generalife Gardens-Alhambra

Al booked our Alhambra visit before we left Seattle and the day of our visit was glorious. We taxied to the entrance and with plenty of time before we were to enter the palace (all instructions said not to be late or you lose your res.) we first visited the Generalife Gardens. This was the location of the sultan's fruit and vegetable gardens and a small summer palace, about 15mins walk from the main palace. Beautiful and peaceful.